On 14 and 15 January 2026, we participated as stakeholders in the presentation of the Joint Research Centre (JRC) on the preparatory study (3rd milestone) for the delegated act on textiles relating to the Ecodesign Regulation (ESPR).
The report outlines a roadmap for the textile sector, identifying the strategies needed to reduce its environmental impact, 60-63% of which is caused by the production of virgin raw materials. It was two intense mornings of presentations and questions from all participants, with clarifications also provided by representatives of the European Commission.
In the proposal for eco-design requirements, four pillars (Design Options) have been proposed for textile products:
Increased Robustness (D01): Extend the useful life of garments through rigorous technical parameters such as tensile strength, abrasion resistance and dimensional stability. The aim is to move from the concept of “disposable” to “durable by design”. This should not be confused with durability, which is a different concept.
Recyclability (D02): Design products that are effectively recoverable at the end of their life. The focus is on simplifying composition (single materials) and making buttons and zips easy to remove. Examples of end-of-life processes currently used in textile recycling were presented. Depending on the type of fabric and its composition, the recycling process and, consequently, the score obtained may vary in terms of performance.
Recycled Content (D03): Encourage the use of secondary fibres with differentiated targets (more ambitious for polyester, gradual for cotton) to close the production loop. In this case, several examples of textile mixes have been reported but without, for now, determining a score.
Environmental Footprint Reduction (D04): Constant monitoring of the Carbon footprint and Environmental footprint during the production phase. The proposal aims to pursue an assessment considering the cradle-to-gate approach, thus excluding the use phase and end of life.
For robustness and recyclability, the JRC proposes a scoring system (0-10) to communicate the characteristics of garments to consumers in a transparent manner.
Considerations
There were numerous questions from participants seeking clarification, which in some cases highlighted certain critical issues with the proposed system.
One of the most debated points concerns the distinction between technical robustness and durability. While the former can be measured in the laboratory (e.g. tensile and abrasion tests), the latter remains linked to subjective variables such as consumer style and behaviour.
The introduction of a scoring system from 0 to 10 is a step towards transparency, but raises questions about data standardisation. For companies, this will mean not only improving their products, but also implementing flawless traceability systems throughout the supply chain to justify each point obtained.
The decision to limit environmental footprint monitoring to the cradle-to-gate phase simplifies reporting for manufacturers, but shifts the focus entirely to industrial and sourcing choices.
At Matrec, we follow developments in the Ecodesign Regulation, creating tools that enable companies to check in advance for any product implications. In particular, we are applying Design Options to a range of fabrics and garments to verify their characteristics and the actions that textile companies will need to implement.