As a privileged observatory of sustainable innovation, we visited the latest edition of Lineapelle in Milan (11-13 February 2026). As usual, our goal is to observe and map circular material solutions that not only meet the aesthetics of luxury but, above all, the requirements of sustainability, also with a view to the application of the Ecodesign Regulation (ESPR).
During our meetings with various manufacturers, we analysed how new materials are evolving to better meet requirements such as durability, recyclability and biodegradability. The challenge is no longer just to provide a material that is sustainable in terms of its composition, but one that can guarantee and maintain high performance over time to extend the life cycle of the finished product, while facilitating disassembly and recovery at the end of its life. We also discussed with companies how different material choices, such as a bio-based polymer or a specific tanning process, can directly influence the circularity and recyclability score of a component or finished product.
Innovations and trends in new materials
From the technical analysis we conducted, which also included an examination of the technical data sheets for the materials presented, we identified four macro-trends that are redefining the hierarchy of materials:
- Bio-centric design and bio-manufacturing: We observed an acceleration from synthetic solutions to “bio-engineering” solutions. These are materials “grown” in the laboratory that replicate natural fibrous structures (such as collagen or mycelial networks) without the use of animal resources. These solutions (according to the companies) offer a carbon footprint reduced by up to 30-40% compared to traditional materials, while ensuring lightness and greater tensile strength.
- Industrial symbiosis and upcycling: The dominant trend is the recovery of waste from external supply chains (agri-food, textiles, wine). We have found solutions for new materials made with bio-based content percentages exceeding 80%, where waste powders are incorporated into “sustainable” polymer matrices to create innovative textures. This is not just recycling, but a form of enhancement that gives the material unique tactile and visual properties.
- Technical natural fibres: Interest is growing in fast-growing plant fibres (which do not require pesticides or intensive irrigation). These fibres are now woven or pressed using technologies that increase their resilience, making them suitable for various clothing components.
- Circular chemistry and regenerative tanning: In the leather sector, innovation is shifting towards metal-free tanning systems and the use of new tannins derived from plant waste, optimising processes to drastically reduce water consumption and the use of persistent chemicals. There has been no shortage of experiments increasingly focused on new tanning systems using tannins from organic waste as an alternative to plant-based tannins.
Cross-sector solutions: Fashion, furniture and automotive
The versatility of the new products allows for cross-sector application of the materials:
- Automotive: The search for lightweight materials for vehicles is answered by bio-based composites that guarantee safety and acoustic comfort.
- Furniture: The resistance to rubbing and ease of cleaning of the new circular surfaces make them ideal for contract and high-end interior design.
- Fashion: Aesthetics are uncompromising, with finishes that perfectly mimic natural grains but with native digital traceability.
Between material sensoriality, embedded technology and self-repairing materials, the new proposals are looking towards an increasingly multi-sector application horizon with the possibility of customising performance, functions and aesthetics.
The critical nature of environmental specifications and transparency
Despite technological progress, we have noted a persistent asymmetry of information from an environmental point of view. Several companies still use terms such as biodegradable, compostable, recyclable or “eco-friendly” without providing supporting technical documentation or third-party certification. It is important to emphasise that trade fairs are a key showcase for companies to test new samples and gauge market interest. This explains why many manufacturers wait for concrete commercial feedback before proceeding with financial investments to obtain environmental certifications, which can sometimes be complex.
Conclusions: A positive outlook for the future
Our experience at Lineapelle, combined with that of other industry events, confirms that the manufacturing ecosystem is paying increasing attention to change. The solutions presented demonstrate that it is possible to combine industrial performance with the regeneration of natural capital. At Matrec, we will continue to support companies in navigating this complexity, transforming regulatory challenges into opportunities for circular design. The path has been laid out: sustainability is no longer an accessory, but a direction of excellence for future manufacturing.
All new materials will soon be available in the Matrec materials library.